TEXTURA: Designed and Made by Hand in Cuba
Several concepts have emerged within the current Cuban fashion market that base their business model on circular fashion. One small design concept stands out from the rest and is focused on the manufacture of fashion accessories made by hand from natural plant-based textile fibers. Its materials are 100% biodegradable and respond to a vision of social responsibility and long-term environmental sustainability.
EEAbroad had the opportunity to interview the director of TEXTURA, Liset Hernández Vázquez, a young Cuban entrepreneur who decided to start a fashion concept that has demonstrated its profitability and success both in the national and visiting foreign markets. Liset recounts how she began her business, develops her aesthetic concept, acquires raw materials, finds inspiration, and envisions the future of contemporary Cuban fashion design.
How and when did the idea of TEXTURA arise?
The idea of TEXTURA arose in 2018. After graduating as an architect and working with a decoration and event planning company, I began experimenting with making baskets, lamps, and other decorations with the ready-made and natural materials that I had on hand. I fell in love with the idea of being able to make new, different products with everyday materials. In the process, I realized how bags and accessories made with natural materials were a great match with the style of clothes that I have always liked.
Although I mostly make accessories, I have always felt a calling to interior design, so I do not rule out the design of furniture, baskets, and lamps. What I am clear about is that I want to continue to work with this type of natural material.
What was your inspiration? Do you have or did you have any reference when you started?
I have always found inspiration in Cuban architecture itself. It is full of different textures and different materials, so I always feel that my bags can be a small reflection of my training as an architect and my identification with the textures that make up the Cuban landscape. My first inspirations also came from international trends, where it is becoming more and more common to see interesting products made with natural materials and fibers.
Are you the first accessory designer to use natural fibers in Cuba?
Cuban artisans have long used natural fiber to make all kinds of accessories. I have only taken up the tradition and I like to believe that I have further curated and elevated the level of design that already existed. I give the product a more contemporary aesthetic by incorporating my personal touch and my training.
Is it difficult to find the materials you need or want to produce your products?
The market is very volatile; sometimes it becomes difficult and other times not. I work with many materials that can be found in the well-established domestic and tourist artisan market, but the supply of materials in these markets can still be unpredictable. There are other materials such as yagua (fibrous tissue of palm leaves) that I obtain myself directly from plants that produce them.
Why is your product unique and important? Why should people buy it?
I think that the main thing to understand about my product is that it synthesizes some of our craft traditions and also that the aesthetic is very Cuban, tropical, and timeless. TEXTURA also has an environmentally-friendly characteristic that is increasingly important for the planet. Everything is made with natural materials and the scraps left over from the production of bags are utilized to make earrings or belts, keeping the waste minimal. If you are looking for accessories with an innovative, creative, and natural touch, then look no further than TEXTURA.
Is your clientele mainly Cuban or foreign? How do you reach them?
Those who discover my product at stores where my merchandise is on display are mostly foreigners. I can also tell where my clients are from depending on the way that they contact me. If they reach me through social media, it’s most likely Cubans but sometimes it’s also foreigners. I use social media networks to publicize my product and utilize quality content, like photographs, drawings, videos, and work sketches. If customers contact me through Instagram, I often use WhatsApp to further communicate with them. This messaging app is more convenient for Cubans because it uses less mobile data. I’m online all the time, so I can respond and follow up quickly. On WhatsApp, I also administer a group chat where I share my products, although this one is more focused on Cuban clientele.
What is it like to be an entrepreneur in Havana in 2020, specifically in the world of fashion?
The quality and creativity of your product must speak for itself since many fashion-related ventures have emerged, and without a doubt, you must put a lot of work into your social media presence. Many brands have helped each other out because collaboration is very important in Cuban entrepreneurship and in the world of fashion. Together we are stronger. This cooperation has been very important for the development of my brand. It has helped me so much in positioning myself in the contemporary Cuban fashion world. I think the main thing is to have a creative, well-designed product that is made with love and mucha bomba (a lot of heart). If your product is good and you know how to present it, then it’s not so difficult to make it. Little by little, progress is made, without losing the fun of doing what you love.
Where do you think TEXTURA can go in the future? What are your expectations?
I have several goals; one is to have a brick and mortar store in Havana that also includes a studio space to create my products. Another goal that I would love to achieve is to develop a TEXTURA branch dedicated to furniture and decoration design and remodeling. I believe that TEXTURA will go as far as I am capable of taking it.
How would you characterize the state of design and fashion in Cuba? Is what is being done in Cuba comparable with the rest of the fashion world?
In recent years, fashion design in Cuba has grown tremendously due to the "entrepreneurial boom" and the use of social media for promotional and commercial purposes. Many, many young designers have set out to create and have filled the void in the fashion market that has existed here for years. All of this growth has mainly been in Havana and the intensity of the boom in Havana has yet to be seen in the rest of the provinces.
There are many great designers and some have even had some success at the international level. Due to many circumstances in Cuba, there are products that we have never seen, but that have been in the world for years now. Some materials and techniques that may be cutting-edge here are merely the norm in the rest of the world. Despite this, I do believe that there are some brands that have been able to capture the Cuban essence and our customs, idiosyncrasy, climate, and history. These are some brands that capture these concepts for me: Capicúa, Dador, El Encanto Atelier, and Salomé.